Ham Sui Gok (咸水角): Crispy-Chewy Fried Glutinous Rice Dumplings with Savory Pork

Ham Sui Gok, or “salty water dumplings,” are a beloved Cantonese dim sum classic. Each dumpling features a gently sweet, blistered, crispy-chewy shell made from glutinous rice flour and a juicy, savory pork filling. With the right dough, oil temperature, and shaping technique, you can recreate that signature hollow, honeycombed interior at home.

Why This Recipe Matters

• Authentic texture: A two-stage fry and a lightly sweetened, hot-water dough produce the airy, slightly hollow interior you expect from dim sum carts.
• Make-ahead friendly: Shape and freeze for dim sum on demand.
• Adaptable: The dough pairs with classic pork, curry beef, or vegetarian fillings.

What Is Ham Sui Gok?

Ham Sui Gok (咸水角) are Cantonese deep-fried dumplings made with a glutinous rice flour dough that fries up crackly outside and pleasantly chewy inside. The filling is typically minced pork with aromatics and umami-rich sauces. A low-temp first fry helps the dough expand and blister, then a quick hot fry sets the golden crust.

Key Ingredients and Components

Dough (crispy-chewy shell)

• Glutinous rice flour (a.k.a. sweet rice flour; “mochiko”): Provides chew and that signature bite. Try Koda Farms Mochiko Sweet Rice Flour: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CNU44?tag=skoma-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1
• Wheat starch (optional but traditional): Lightens the texture and improves shaping. For gluten-free needs, swap with tapioca starch, noting texture will differ.
• Sugar: Slight sweetness encourages blistering and a honeycombed crumb.
• Baking powder: Gentle lift. Some pros use baker’s ammonia; baking powder is easier at home.
• Lard or neutral oil: Lard adds authentic flavor and crispness; neutral oil works too.
• Boiling water: Hydrates and gelatinizes the starches for elasticity.
• Salt: Balances sweetness.

Savory Pork Filling

• Ground pork (about 20% fat): Juicy and flavorful.
• Dried shiitake mushrooms and dried shrimp: Classic dim sum depth; optional but recommended.
• Water chestnuts or jicama: Fresh crunch.
• Aromatics: Scallions, garlic, ginger.
• Seasonings: Soy sauce, oyster sauce, Shaoxing wine, white pepper, sugar, sesame oil, and cornstarch to bind.

Recipe: Ham Sui Gok (咸水角)

Yield: 16–18 dumplings (about 6–8 servings as a snack) | Active time: 50 minutes | Total: 1 hour 45 minutes (includes resting) | Skill: Intermediate

Ingredients

Dough

• 250 g glutinous rice flour (about 2 cups, spooned and leveled)
• 30 g wheat starch (about 1/4 cup; optional but recommended)
• 85 g sugar (about 7 tbsp)
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1/4 tsp fine salt
• 200–220 g boiling water (200–220 ml; start with 200 and add as needed)
• 25 g lard or neutral oil (about 2 tbsp)

Pork Filling

• 250 g ground pork (about 1/2 lb, 20% fat)
• 4 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked until soft, minced (reserve 2–3 tbsp soaking liquid)
• 1–2 tbsp dried shrimp, soaked and minced (optional)
• 1/3 cup finely diced water chestnuts or jicama
• 2 scallions, finely chopped (whites and greens)
• 1 tsp grated ginger
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp light soy sauce
• 1 tbsp oyster sauce
• 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine (or dry sherry)
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1/4 tsp white pepper
• 1 tsp cornstarch
• 1 tsp toasted sesame oil
• 2–3 tbsp mushroom soaking liquid or water, as needed
• 1 tbsp neutral oil for sautéing

For Frying

• Neutral frying oil (2–3 inches in a deep, heavy pot)

Step-by-Step Instructions

1) Make the filling

1. Prep aromatics: Squeeze excess water from soaked shiitakes and dried shrimp; mince finely. Dice water chestnuts, chop scallions, mince ginger and garlic.
2. Cook: Heat 1 tbsp oil in a skillet over medium. Add pork, breaking it up. When it loses pinkness, add garlic, ginger, shiitakes, and dried shrimp. Cook 1–2 minutes.
3. Season: Stir in soy sauce, oyster sauce, Shaoxing wine, sugar, white pepper, and cornstarch. Add 2–3 tbsp mushroom soaking liquid to make the mixture cohesive but not wet.
4. Finish: Fold in water chestnuts and scallions. Drizzle sesame oil. Cook until excess moisture evaporates; mixture should hold together. Cool completely.

2) Make the dough

1. Combine dry: In a bowl, whisk glutinous rice flour, wheat starch, sugar, baking powder, and salt.
2. Add boiling water: Pour in 200 g boiling water in a steady stream, stirring with chopsticks or a spatula until shaggy clumps form. If dry bits remain, add up to 20 g more hot water, 1 tsp at a time.
3. Incorporate fat: Add lard or oil and knead (careful, warm) until smooth and supple, 2–3 minutes. The dough should be soft, warm, and slightly tacky but not sticky.
4. Rest: Cover and let rest 20–30 minutes to hydrate fully.

3) Shape the dumplings

1. Portion: Divide dough into 16–18 equal pieces (about 25–28 g each). Keep covered to prevent drying.
2. Form wrappers: Roll each piece into a ball, then flatten into a 3–3.5 inch round, slightly thicker in the center.
3. Fill and seal: Add 1 heaping tablespoon of filling. Fold into a half-moon, pinch the seam firmly, then smooth and shape into a tapered oval/football. Ensure no cracks; reseal any weak spots.

4) Fry in two stages

1. First fry (expansion): Heat oil to 300–320°F (150–160°C). Fry 5–7 dumplings at a time for 6–8 minutes, gently turning. They will expand, form tiny blisters, and turn a pale beige.
2. Second fry (color): Increase oil to 350–360°F (175–182°C). Return dumplings to the oil and fry 45–75 seconds until evenly golden. Drain on a rack.
3. Rest: Let stand 3–5 minutes to finish crisping. Serve hot.

Expert Cooking Tips

• Measure by weight for accuracy. An affordable scale improves dough consistency: Ozeri Pronto Digital Scale: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004164SRA?tag=skoma-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1
• Warm dough is key. Boiling water partially gelatinizes starches, giving elasticity and fewer cracks.
• Sugar supports blistering. Don’t reduce it too much or you’ll lose the honeycomb interior.
• Keep filling cohesive, not wet. Excess moisture can cause bursting.
• Stage your fry. Low temp expands and dries the shell; a brief hot fry sets color and crunch.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Oil too hot during the first fry: The shell browns before expanding, resulting in dense centers and possible splits.
• Dough too dry: Leads to surface cracks; add small splashes of hot water and knead smooth.
• Poor sealing: Any gaps will leak filling and cause violent bubbling. Pinch, smooth, and double-check seams.
• Overfilling: Makes sealing difficult and increases bursting risk. Aim for about 1 tbsp per dumpling.
• Skipping the rest: Rested dough handles better and fries more evenly.

Best Tools for Success

• Digital kitchen scale for precise hydration: Ozeri Pronto Digital Scale
• Heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven for stable frying temperature
• Deep-fry or instant-read thermometer to manage the two-stage fry
• Spider skimmer or slotted spoon for gentle turning and safe retrieval
• Wire rack set over a sheet pan for draining and preserving crispness

Variations and Substitutions

• Curry beef: Swap pork for minced beef; season with mild curry powder, soy, and a touch of oyster sauce.
• Char siu twist: Dice Chinese BBQ pork and mix with minced onion and a spoon of hoisin for a sweet-savory filling.
• Vegetarian: Use minced shiitake, king oyster mushrooms, diced firm tofu, and water chestnuts; season with soy, mushroom powder, and sesame oil.
• Gluten considerations: Use tapioca starch instead of wheat starch and gluten-free soy. Texture will be slightly chewier.
• Lard alternatives: Neutral oil or coconut oil works; lard gives the most authentic snap.

Make-Ahead, Storage, and Reheating

• To freeze (best method): Shape raw dumplings, freeze on a tray until solid, then bag. Fry from frozen: first fry at 290–300°F a few minutes longer, then finish at 350–360°F.
• Reheating: Re-crisp in a 350°F oven or toaster oven for 8–10 minutes. Air-fry at 350°F for 5–7 minutes. Microwaving softens the shell—avoid if possible.

Safety Notes

• Use a thermometer to control oil temperature and reduce splatter risk.
• Dry your filling and seal tightly to prevent bursting.
• Don’t overcrowd the pot; temperature drops can cause greasy results.

FAQ (Clear, Concise Answers)

What makes Ham Sui Gok hollow and blistered inside?

The combination of a lightly sweetened glutinous rice dough, hot-water hydration, and a two-stage fry creates the signature texture. The first fry at 300–320°F gently dries and expands the shell, forming a honeycombed interior; the brief second fry at 350–360°F sets a golden, crisp exterior without overcooking the dough.

Can I make Ham Sui Gok without wheat starch?

Yes. Wheat starch lightens the bite and improves shaping, but you can omit it or replace it with tapioca starch. Expect a slightly chewier, denser shell without wheat starch. Keep the sugar level and two-stage fry consistent to preserve blistering and that airy interior.

How do I stop dumplings from cracking or bursting?

Hydrate the dough with boiling water and rest it so it’s supple, not dry. Seal seams firmly and smooth any creases. Keep the filling cohesive—not wet. Start frying at 300–320°F to allow slow expansion; high initial heat can force steam out through weak spots and cause splits.

What oil temperature is best for frying Ham Sui Gok?

Use a low first fry at 300–320°F for 6–8 minutes to allow expansion and drying. Then increase to 350–360°F and fry 45–75 seconds until evenly golden. This staged approach yields a crisp shell, airy interior, and minimizes oil absorption or bursting.

Can I air-fry Ham Sui Gok?

Air-frying won’t reliably create the same hollow, blistered texture because the dough’s expansion benefits from submersion frying. If you try, spray generously with oil and air-fry at 360°F, rotating until golden. Expect a denser crumb and less even color compared to deep-fried results.

What’s the best flour for the dough?

Use glutinous rice flour (sweet rice flour), not regular rice flour. Brands labeled “mochiko” work well for consistent hydration and chew. Regular rice flour lacks the necessary stickiness and will not produce the proper dim sum texture. A small amount of wheat starch further refines the bite.

Can I prepare the filling ahead?

Absolutely. Cook and cool the filling up to 2 days in advance. Chilling firms it slightly, making shaping easier. If the filling seems wet after chilling, cook it briefly to evaporate excess moisture before wrapping, which helps prevent leaks and bursting during frying.

Troubleshooting Guide

• Dumplings greasy: Oil too cool or crowded pot. Fry in smaller batches and maintain temperature.
• No blistering: Sugar too low, oil too hot at first fry, or dough under-hydrated. Adjust hydration and temperatures.
• Dense interior: Skipped low-temp fry or shortened it. Extend the first fry to allow expansion.

Conclusion

Ham Sui Gok is all about balance: a supple sweet dough, a savory juicy filling, and careful temperature control. Master the warm dough and two-stage fry, and you’ll bring authentic dim sum texture and flavor to your kitchen—crispy, chewy, airy, and deeply satisfying.